The straight line:
The grain line is parallel to the selvedge. It is represented on the patterns by a right arrow. When you place your pattern, you must make sure that this arrow is aligned with the straight grain of your fabric.
The edge:
The selvedge is the vertical edge of your fabric. This is often where you will find the brand of the fabric and sometimes certain indications such as washing instructions.
The plot:
This is the horizontal edge of your fabric, perpendicular to the selvedge. This is where your fabric will be cut in the shops, depending on the size you have chosen.
The first thing to observe on your fabric are the vertical lines, therefore your straight thread (or warp thread). It is in relation to these lines that you will have to align your pattern.
On your pattern, if the straight grain is parallel to the fold line (this is not always the case), then you must also make sure that your fold line is on the straight grain. One way to do this is to take a tape measure and measure in a few places so the distance from the edge to the selvage is the same everywhere. Otherwise, you can simply visually ensure that your fold follows the same vertical line.
Tips for sewing stretch fabric
- Use ballpoint needles (if your machine allows it, read the instruction manual carefully).
- Adjust the size of the needle according to the thickness of your fabric. For light fabric, take 70/10 needles, for medium fabric, take 80/12 needles and for thicker fabrics, take 90/14 needles.
- If you don't have a serger, use a zig-zag stitch or a stretch stitch.
- If you have a walking foot, use it!
- Don't pull on your fabric as you sew, let it go by gently guiding it with your left hand.
HAPPY SEWING!