How to make a lettuce hem with a serger or sewing machine

The simple tutorial for a perfect “lettuce” effect on stretch fabrics

Want to add a fun, dynamic touch to a T-shirt, dress, or leggings? The lettuce hem (also called lettuce hem) is a soft, decorative finish, perfect for stretchy, lightweight fabrics. It’s easy to do, even for beginners, with a serger or a regular sewing machine.

What is a lettuce hem?

A lettuce hem creates a wavy, slightly frilled edge that adds movement to your garment. You get it by combining a very tight zigzag or rolled hem stitch with tension applied to the fabric while sewing.

It’s the ideal finish for:

• Jersey, rib knit, even French Terry
• Kids’ clothes or “dance” looks
• Ruffles, sleeve hems or garment hems, dress edges

⚠️ It doesn’t work on non-stretch woven fabrics.

Step 1: Machine setup

Serger (stretched rolled hem)

Use your manual to set up your machine for a 3-thread rolled hem.

In short, for most sergers:

• Remove the left needle
• Remove or release the stitch finger (stitch finger)
• Very short stitch length (often “R”)
• Reduced width (often “R”)
• Increase the lower looper tension
• Set the differential feed to the lowest (0.6 or 0.7 depending on the machine)

Sewing machine (stretched zigzag)

• Stitch simple zigzag
• Very short stitch length
• Medium to wide width (e.g., 5)

Step 2: Sew the lettuce hem

Tips and tricks for a great “lettuce” effect:

●      Always start by practicing on a scrap from your project fabric.

●      For a nicely rippled rolled hem, make sure to stretch the fabric as much as possible by pulling forward and backward at the same time.

●      On a sewing machine, align the fabric edge with the center of the presser foot. The zigzag will then place one stitch in the fabric and one stitch off the edge.

 ✨ Bonus tip: The stretchier and lighter the fabric, the more pronounced the effect.

🧵 In short

The lettuce hem is:

• quick to make
• decorative and stretchy
• perfect for fabrics like jersey and rib knit

With a little practice (and good tension control), you’ll love this finish that’s both simple and spectacular!

Final result

Want to try it?

👉 Try it on a rib knit T-shirt hem or on a dress ruffle in jersey.
👉 Need a suitable pattern? Take a look at Cerise for patterns perfect for stretch fabrics.