Which Elastic Should You Choose for Sewing? A Guide to the Different Types of Elastic

When you start sewing clothes, you quickly discover that elastic… isn’t just elastic! There are several types, widths and levels of firmness, and they aren’t all designed for the same projects.

Woven elastic, knitted elastic, non-roll elastic, clear elastic, lingerie elastic, swimwear elastic… which one should you choose for a waistband, sleeve, underwear or swimsuit?
Here’s a simple guide to help you choose the right elastic for your project!

Woven Elastic

Woven elastic is generally quite firm and very stable. It holds its width well when stretched and provides good support.
It’s an excellent choice for waistbands on pants, skirts or shorts, especially when inserted into a casing.
Ideal for:

• pants
• shorts
• elastic-waist skirts
• pyjamas
• garments that require good support

A little tip: firmer doesn’t necessarily mean more comfortable! For a waistband, the elastic should support the garment without making you want to take it off after dinner.
View black woven elastic
View white woven elastic

Non-Roll Elastic

As the name suggests, non-roll elastic is designed to be less likely to roll, fold or twist inside a waistband.
Its structure is generally firmer and more stable than very soft elastic, making it especially useful for wider casings and garments where the waistband needs to stay securely in place.
Ideal for:

• elastic-waist pants
• shorts
• skirts
• pyjamas
• garments with a wide casing

If you’ve ever spent several minutes trying to untwist elastic inside a waistband, you immediately understand why this type is so useful!
View black non-roll elastic
View white non-roll elastic

Knitted Elastic

Knitted elastic is generally softer and more flexible than woven elastic. It works well for garments where comfort is a priority and is especially suitable for lighter fabrics.
Ideal for:

• children’s clothing
• pyjamas
• soft waistbands
• sleeves
• lightweight garments

Depending on the project, it can also be sewn directly onto certain fabrics.
If you’re deciding between a very firm elastic and a softer option for a comfortable garment, knitted elastic is often a great choice.
View black knitted elastic
View white knitted elastic

Braided Elastic

Braided elastic is fairly easy to recognize: it usually becomes narrower when stretched.
It works very well in small casings but is less suitable for wide waistbands because it can have a tendency to roll or fold.
Ideal for:

• sleeves
• cuffs
• small accessories
• lightweight garments
• narrow casings

For a wide pants waistband, I would choose woven or non-roll elastic instead.

Clear Elastic

Clear elastic is a thin elastic, usually made from polyurethane.
Its purpose is different from the elastic used in waistbands. It is mainly used to stabilize stretch seams or create light gathering.
Ideal for:

• stabilizing shoulder seams in jersey
• supporting certain necklines
• creating gathers in stretch fabric
• stabilizing certain stretch seams

It’s a particularly useful little notion if you sew a lot of jersey!

Lingerie Elastic

Lingerie elastics are designed to be soft and comfortable against the skin. Depending on the style, they can be decorative or very discreet.
They are generally less rigid than elastic designed for a pants waistband.
Ideal for:

• underwear
• bralettes
• bras
• camisoles
• sleepwear

For these kinds of projects, it’s best not to replace the recommended elastic with a thick, very firm waistband elastic. Your skin will probably remind you pretty quickly!

Picot Elastic

Picot elastic is commonly used for lingerie. It has a small decorative edge that can remain visible once the elastic is sewn in place.
It is generally applied in two steps: first, the elastic is sewn to the edge of the fabric, then folded toward the inside and topstitched.
Ideal for:

• underwear
• bras
• bralettes
• sleepwear

In addition to supporting the garment, it creates a pretty finished edge.

Swimwear Elastic

For swimwear, it’s best to choose an elastic specifically designed for this use. The elastic needs to withstand water and the conditions the garment will be exposed to.
There are elastics made specifically for swimwear, as well as certain types of rubber elastic.
Ideal for:

• swimsuits
• bikinis
• fitted beachwear

Standard elastic isn’t always the best substitute because it may lose its recovery more quickly.

Buttonhole Elastic

Buttonhole elastic has small, regularly spaced openings that make it easy to adjust the length using a button.
It is very commonly found in children’s pants.
Ideal for:

• children’s pants
• grow-with-me clothing
• adjustable waistbands

It’s especially useful when a garment needs to adapt to different body shapes or fit a child for a little longer.
View buttonhole elastic

Which Elastic Should You Choose for a Pants or Skirt Waistband?

For an elastic waistband, generally choose woven, knitted or non-roll elastic, depending on the level of firmness you want.
For a more structured waistband, woven or non-roll elastic provides more support. For a very soft garment, knitted elastic may be more comfortable.
The width depends on the pattern and the style of the garment. Common elastic widths include 25 mm, 30 mm, 40 mm and wider.
When using a sewing pattern, always start by checking the recommended elastic width.

Which Elastic Should You Choose for Sleeves?

For sleeves and cuffs, a narrow knitted or braided elastic generally works very well.
The goal is to have enough tension to hold the garment in place without creating an uncomfortable feeling around the arm.

Which Elastic Should You Use With Jersey?

For a waistband or casing in jersey, you can use a traditional elastic suited to the garment.
To stabilize certain seams, especially shoulder seams, clear elastic is usually the better choice.
These are two completely different uses!

What Width of Elastic Should You Choose?

The width depends primarily on the project.
A pants or skirt waistband may require fairly wide elastic, while a sleeve, underwear or small detail will generally need something much narrower.
The best approach is to follow the pattern recommendations whenever a width is specified.
Changing the elastic width significantly can affect comfort, support and even the way the garment hangs.

How Do You Determine the Right Elastic Length?

Sewing patterns generally provide a length of elastic to cut. This measurement is an excellent starting point.
You can still adjust it depending on your body, the type of elastic and the level of comfort you want.
A good test is to place the elastic around the part of the body where it will be worn and check the fit before joining the ends permanently.
Be careful not to stretch it too much! Elastic that feels perfectly fine for thirty seconds can become much less friendly after a few hours.

Can You Substitute One Type of Elastic for Another?

Sometimes, yes!
In a simple pants or skirt casing, several types of elastic can give good results. The main things to compare are width, firmness and recovery.
For lingerie, swimwear or certain technical applications, however, it’s better to use an elastic designed specifically for that purpose.

Which Elastics Should You Keep in Your Sewing Space?

You don’t need twenty-seven different types to get started!
If you sew garments regularly, just a few types can already cover a huge number of projects:

• a soft elastic measuring 19 to 25 mm
• a woven or non-roll elastic measuring 32 to 50 mm for waistbands
• a narrow elastic for sleeves and small casings
• clear elastic for jersey projects
• picot elastic if you sew lingerie

The most important thing is to have elastics that match the projects you actually enjoy sewing.

In Summary: How Do You Choose the Right Elastic?

Before choosing, ask yourself three questions:
Where will the elastic be used? A waistband doesn’t have the same requirements as a sleeve or a pair of underwear.
How much support is needed? Pants generally require more structure than sleepwear.
What width does the pattern recommend? That’s often the best place to start.
And remember: if you’re standing in front of a wall of elastics and they’re all starting to look the same, you’re definitely not alone! Once you understand what each one is designed to do, choosing becomes much easier.