Basic notions for sewing stretch fabrics
Where to start when sewing stretch fabrics? Fabrics like jersey, French Terry, and sweatshirt fleece, for example, sold in our store, all fall into the category of stretch fabrics. If you are new to working with this type of material, follow our recommendations to make your sewing easier!
The first thing to observe on your fabric are the vertical lines, so your warp (or warp thread). It is in relation to these lines that you will need to align your pattern.
On your pattern, if the grainline is parallel to the fold line (which is not always the case), you will also need to make sure that your fold line is on the grainline. One way to do this is to take a measuring tape and measure in a few places if the distance between the edge and the selvedge is the same everywhere. Otherwise, you can simply visually ensure that your fold follows a consistent vertical line.
SMALL LEXICON
The right thread:
The grainline is parallel to the selvage. It is represented on the patterns by a straight arrow. When placing your pattern, make sure this arrow is aligned with the grainline of your fabric.
La lisière :
The selvage is the vertical edge of your fabric. It is often where you will find the fabric mark and sometimes certain indications such as washing instructions.
La trame :
This is the horizontal edge of your fabric, perpendicular to the selvage. This is where your fabric will be cut in fabric stores according to the size you have chosen.
Tips for sewing stretch fabric
- Use some Ballpoint needles If your machine allows it, be sure to read the instruction manual carefully.
- Adjust the needle size according to the thickness of your fabric. For light fabric, use 70/10 needles, for medium fabric, use 80/12 needles, and for thicker fabrics, use 90/14 needles.
- If you don't have an overlocker, use a zigzag stitch or a stretch stitch.
- If you have a walking foot, use it!
- Do not pull on your fabric while sewing, let it go by gently guiding it with your left hand.
GOOD SEWING!
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